Most car enthusiasts are familiar with the GM G-Body’s front suspension because it is similar to every GM vehicle built since 1955. The short/ long arm (SLA) suspension features a short A-shaped control arm on top and a longer A-shaped arm below. But this suspension can be substantially upgraded to perform at a much higher level than stock. The arms on 1982-and-newer S-series trucks conveniently interchange with these stamped-steel OEM arms. In fact, the lower arm is also interchangeable with the one found on 1982–1992 Camaros and Firebirds. They are generally rebuildable, but check to make sure the arms have not been damaged in a collision or by excessive corrosion. If so, discard them.
A coil spring is captured in a pocket in the frame, and it seats in the lower control arm.
A conventional hydraulic shock absorber is installed through an opening in the lower control arm. It also bolts to the lower arm and the center of the frame pocket.
The spindle or upright is a “short” design, similar to that used on the 1964–1972 A/F/X-Bodies, but it is not interchangeable with those spindles.
All G-Body models were equipped with a solid front sway-bar; sizing varies.
Overall, this is a very simple suspension design, and it lends itself to easy repair and modification.
Component Options
Suspension components wear out over time and need to be replaced. About any G-Body that hasn’t already received a full suspension rebuild needs it, even if it’s a low-mileage car. Control arm bushings crack or break. Ball joints wear, and play develops (detected by jacking up the front of the car, and trying to manually move the wheel/tire assembly; if it has play in it, replace the ball joints). Split boots on the ball joints or tie rods occur over time. All are reasons to carefully inspect the suspension and replace parts as needed.
Doug Lutes built his own suspension system. It features SPC upper and lower control arms with Howe screw-in ball joints, Chris Alston ChassisWorks VariShocks, and Moog springs. RideTech coil-overs, however, have replaced the Moog springs. The sway bar is a 36-mm hollow F-Body unit from Spohn Performance, and the end links (note the red bushings) are from Energy Suspension. Lutes has selected some of the best parts from the aftermarket, and created a well-balanced system that suits his purpose (autocrossing) very well. (Photo Courtesy Doug Lutes)
This is the stock front suspension from our project Buick, the GNXcess. It is very similar to that of the earlier A-Body models in both design and construction. The upper and lower A-arms are stamped steel, with rubber bushings and a conventional spring and shock.
Everything is original, right down to the ball joint. All of it will be discarded for this build.
Many enthusiasts rebuild stock control arms, rather than installing aftermarket tubular arms. Some replace stock arms with tubular arms, and wrongly assume the aftermarket versions are stronger and lighter than stock. But, in many cases, the stock arms are actually stronger and lighter than the pricey aftermarket ones. Aftermarket tubular arms have distinct advantages, but always carefully examine them and compare them against the stock arms. (This is covered in “Aftermarket Control Arms” on page 51.
This Tech Tip is From the Full Book, GM G-BODY PERFORMANCE UPGRADES 1978-1987. For a comprehensive guide on this entire subject you can visit this link:
LEARN MORE ABOUT THIS BOOK HERE
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The thing to remember is to use only high-quality parts. If available, use Moog suspension parts because they are made to exacting standards. While these parts are more expensive than store brands, this isn’t a place to skimp because the quality of the parts infl uence the quality of handling, road holding, and ride. Offshore ball joints often fit loosely, and even come apart, so do not use them.
It’s matter of personal preference when selecting bushings. OEM-type rubber provides a good ride, low noise, and a reasonable service life. Polyurethane bushings tend to have less deflection and are often chosen for high-performance applications. They resist cracking better than rubber, but can be noisy if improperly lubricated. Also, they can cause binding in some applications, which mostly occurs in the rear suspension due to the already-short length of the upper control arms and their relative lack of leverage. Bushings made of DuPont Delrin (often paired with aluminum as in Global West’s Del-alum bushings) have the advantage of virtually zero deflection, but they are costly, and also tend to squeak if improperly lubricated.
Solid aluminum bushings, steel bushings, and heim-joint ends can replace conventional bushings, but these are installed on aftermarket arms; rarely, if ever, are these parts installed on stock arms. They tend to be noisy and wear more quickly than other choices. Keep in mind, heim ends need to be inspected regularly. I include them only because some aftermarket arms may offer them.
Stock Control Arms
Rebuilding stock control arms is pretty simple and straightforward, but you need air tools and a hydraulic press to complete the work. If you do not have these tools, leave this job to a professional. Most home mechanics can remove the arms, but always exercise safety when doing the job. The lower control arm contains the coil spring, and the compressed spring has enough energy to severely injure or kill if it slips out of the compressor.
Performing this work is much easier with a car lift. If you don’t have one, use a floor jack to raise the front of the vehicle. Place jack stands securely under the frame and around the firewall area. Be sure to get the car high enough so that the lower arm has room to swing down without hitting the floor.
Here are the general steps I follow:
1. Once the car is in position, remove the front wheels and then unbolt the sway-bar end links from the lower control arms. The links are often badly corroded and have a tendency to break, so use lots of penetrating oil and be prepared to replace them. 2. Cut them off with a plasma cutter or reciprocating saw, if needed.
2. Use an air ratchet to remove the upper retaining nut from the shock absorber, and then remove the two bolts at the bottom of the lower control arm. The shock can be lifted out of the suspension.
The upper ball joint is riveted in, which indicates it has never been replaced (aftermarket ball joints bolt in). The steering linkage has been disconnected from the steering box and spindles, and the front sway bar has been removed in preparation for control arm removal. The end link installs in the lower hole of the A-arm. An end link is basically a long bolt with bushings, a spacer, washers, and a locking nut. They are very strong and rarely, if ever, break. When removing them, don’t hesitate to cut them off if necessary, especially if the threads are rusty. These bushings are in decent shape with no visible cracks, and therefore are unlikely to be the original parts.
3. Next, use pliers and hammer to tap and pull the cotter pins out from the upper and lower ball joints, as well as from the outer tie rod end. Note the size and discard them. Never reuse cotter pins because if a reused cotter pin fails, a vital suspension fastener could come loose and suspension failure could occur.
4. If brake work is being done at the same time, disconnect the flex line from the caliper. I always do this at the caliper because there is less chance of stripping one of the soft fittings; otherwise, just unbolt the caliper from the spindle and use a piece of wire or a bungee cord to hang it from the chassis or suspension, which minimizes stress on the line.
5. Once the caliper is out of the way, loosen the castellated nut on the outer tie rod end. It can be removed, but be sure to choose the right method for the tool you have available.
6. The easiest way is to smack the loosened nut with a small, 3-pound sledge, but it must be left in place. Chances of damaging the threads are minimized and this force is usually enough to break it loose. If this method does not work, use a “pickle fork,” or ball joint/tie rod separator, which is similar to a large chisel with a forked end. Strike the end with a hammer to force apart the tapered tie rod and steering arm. This is a very versatile tool, but care has to be taken when using it on good parts because it has a tendency to rip the rubber boots found on tie rods and ball joints.
7. Use a tie rod puller to press the stud out of the steering arm. This tool is best for use on “finished” cars, since it doesn’t damage the tie rod boots as a pickle fork does.
8. With the tie rod out of the way, remove the coil spring and control arms. Some use a spring compressor to remove the control arm. I recommend using a floor jack for the spring removal procedure. Place it under the lower control arm, positioned directly under the lower ball joint, and raise the lower arm just high enough to take the tension off the ball joints. If you are not going to reuse the spring, use a plasma cutter, cutoff wheel, or reciprocating saw to cut it out and remove it. Use care and do not position yourself in the spring’s path, should it somehow slip loose.
This Belltech dropped spindle for a 1998–2002 2WD S-series Blazer allows the use of larger brake rotors. The upper ball joint nut has been loosened, and a pickle fork has been used to break it free from the spindle. At this point, the control arms securely contain the spring; the shock has been removed. Next, place a jack under the control arm and put the spring under a load. If you don’t have much experience with coil springs, use a spring compressor or chain to limit the travel of the spring when removing it. Exercise extreme caution, you do not want the spring to slip.
9. Remove the castellated nut from the upper ball joint. Use the pickle fork and hammer to separate it from the spindle.
Disconnect the upper ball joint from the spindle. This ball joint separator is essentially a large wedge; hit it with a 3-pound sledge to break the interference fit of the ball joint and spindle. The aftermarket A-arm is a StrongArm from RideTech.
10. Once the ball joint has broken loose, remove the two nuts to unbolt the upper control arm shaft from the frame, and remove the arm.
11. Remove the lower ball joint in the same manner, but leave it in place temporarily, so it shields you from the coil spring.
12. Once the lower ball joint is loose, slowly lower the floor jack and release the tension on the spring. Often, the spring falls out onto the floor, but in some cases, a little residual tension makes it hang up on the spring seat. If this happens, use a long pry bar and carefully unseat it, but be sure to stay out of the spring’s path.
Exercise extreme caution and use the correct tools when removing the spring. With the upper arm disconnected, lower the bottom arm to remove the spring. Even when the spring is compressed, don’t do this by hand. Use a long pry bar and keep your body as far away from the spring as possible. The energy contained by a spring can badly injure or even kill you. With the spring out, remove the bolts securing the control arm to the frame, and pull it free.
13. Once the spring is out of the way, remove the two lower control arms and set them aside.
The spindle end is already disconnected, so all that remains is to remove the two nuts at the upper control arm shaft. The upper arm then comes off, and this side is finished.
Box in the stock lower arm with steel plate, and then add a new ball joint and aftermarket bushings for more strength. Adding steel plate to fully box the arm does add some weight but the increased torsional rigidity and improved handling are definitely worth the trade-off. (Photo Courtesy Ben Meissner)
For the upper control arm, you need an air or electric grinder or a drill to remove the factory rivets on the upper ball joint. I follow these general steps:
1. Use a hydraulic press or air chisel to remove the control arm bushings. Grinding the ball joint rivets is usually faster; once the heads are ground flush, use a hammer and punch to drive them out. Replacement ball joints are supplied with bolts, nuts, and lock washers for reassembly. If the upper ball joints are bolted in already, they have been replaced before. Be sure to use thread locker on the new bolts because you don’t want to risk these ever coming loose on the road.
2. To remove the upper control arm bushings, first remove the cross shaft nuts and washers. This can be done with hand tools. If the control arm bushings are mostly intact, they can be difficult to remove. A good trick is to use a drill to remove most of the rubber bushing material, and a handheld propane torch to take care of any residual rubber.
3. The bushing’s steel sleeve has to be pressed off or chiseled out. If it must be chiseled off, air chisels work best, but it can be done by hand in a pinch. Carefully support the control arm when using a press because it is very easy to bend it.
4. Once the first bushing shell is pressed out, remove the cross shaft. With the cross shaft out, it’s easier to remove the other bushing.
5. The lower control arm bushings are removed in the same manner (though there isn’t a cross shaft to deal with; you simply remove the bushings and bushing shells).
6. Use a ball joint press to press off the lower ball joints. You can rent one from most auto parts stores. The press works similar to a big C-clamp; it has several round tubing adapters to press the old joint out and the new one in. If needed, do this work when the control arm is installed on the car. You can also use a hydraulic press and some large tubing.
7. Installing the new bushings on upper and lower arms is pretty straightforward. The OEMstyle rubber and aftermarket urethane bushings come with new shells that are a very tight fit, so they need to be pressed in. Carefully support the control arm so as not to bend it. If necessary, use an abrasive wheel to grind away the ID of the bushing area on the control arm to make the installation easier, but go slowly and be careful. If you remove too much material, you have to replace the control arm.
8. Apply lubricant to polyurethane bushings (and other bushing types that require it) before installation to avoid squeaks.
Aftermarket Control Arms
Stock control arms have their place, but aftermarket arms can have several advantages. As mentioned previously, weight and strength aren’t necessarily among them. In many cases, they are heavier than stock, and some arms are weaker than stamped arms. Drag-race arms are weaker, but there is rationale for using them. In most cases, the upper A-arm features improved geometry, but the geometry for the lower arm typically remains the same.
The length is often changed to compensate for a taller spindle. The B/F-Body spindle or newer aftermarket spindles for the A/F/X are often taller. Sometimes, though, the geometry isn’t changed at all. In this case, the benefit is the arm’s bushing material or a dimensionally different/stronger ball joint.
Ben Meissner installed these SPC upper arms. Incredibly, these use a greasable steel bushing. As long as they are kept lubricated, they last forever. (Photo Courtesy Ben Meissner)
Here, an SPC arm is installed on Doug Lutes’ Sic Monte Monte Carlo SS. (Photo Courtesy Doug Lutes)
Keep these factors in mind when choosing new control arms. If you need more information, consult an expert such as Mark Savitske of Savitske Classic & Custom. His book How to Make Your Muscle Car Handle does a great job of explaining suspensions, and how to get the best results for a given purpose.
Aftermarket Control Arm Installation
I chose a set of upper and lower StrongArm control arms from RideTech Suspension for the GNXcess, which is a 1983 Buick Regal T-Type. RideTech’s initial efforts were focused on some very innovative air suspension products that are available for the G-Body. RideTech remains the industry leader in air suspension, but has branched out to offer complete suspension packages for a variety of vehicles.
With the GNXcess disassembled, we did a quick mock up to verify the fit of all components. While it’s not essential, it’s helpful to see how all the parts come together. Upper and lower StrongArms, Belltech Blazer 2WD spindles and hubs, and coil-over shocks have been installed. In addition, a 525-hp LS3 crate engine from Chevrolet Performance has been installed. But this engine isn’t a permanent addition. It is destined for a 1965 Cutlass, the Lonestar. We will install a 408-ci LS engine with twin turbos. Custom-built stainless steel turbo headers by Bulldawg Musclecars will replace the BRP/Musclerod 17 ⁄8 headers.
The GNXcess isn’t fitted with stock suspension components. Pictured here is the complete suspension package from RideTech. The new StrongArm lower control arms are compatible with Shockwaves (a hybrid shock) or with coil-over springs. The front and rear Musclebar sway bars are also pictured.
The RideTech coil-over shocks mount up just like stock versions, but do require a slight enlargement of the hole at the top of the spring pocket for the shaft to pass through.
The Musclebar is a direct bolt-on, but two holes do have to be drilled and tapped for its mounting brackets.
These are similar to latemodel Corvette end links (pictured on the A-Body chassis on page 55).
The combination of LS engine, RideTech suspension, and Z06 Corvette brakes will transform the handling and performance of this G-Body.
Notice the clearance between the upper control arm and the header; the arm can actually be serviced without removing the header first.
Header clearance is also excellent on the driver’s side.
The RideTech suspension and Belltech 2-inch dropped spindles provide an attractive and aggressive stance for this 1983 T-Type. It may be a little low for a street car, but it works great on the autocross course and at my prime destination for it, the Bonneville Salt Flats.
The StrongArms were originally designed to accept RideTech’s ShockWave (a combination of an air bag and an adjustable aluminum shock absorber). RideTech’s billet adjustable coil-over shock with Hyperco springs are for those who plan to autocross as well as road, drag, and land speed race, as well as regularly drive on the street. Drastic changes that can be made with a conventional spring, or even a ShockWave, are needed.
Made from heavy-wall, mildsteel tuning, StrongArms feature an attachment point on the lower arm for coil-over shocks, and therefore they’re not compatible with a conventional coil spring. The improved geometry of the upper arm offers better handling and is set up for a “short” spindle. (Note that my spindle isn’t the original G-Body spindle with its cast-in caliper bracket.)
I installed an aftermarket Belltech 1998–2004 2WD S-series Blazer spindle with a 2-inch drop, which is the same height as a stock spindle, because the StrongArms can’t be used with tall spindles. The arms come fully assembled, except for the upper ball joints (included), which must be bolted in. The arms are fitted with polyurethane bushings and they feature a satinblack, powdercoating fi finish. Installation is the same as with stock arms, and the stock hardware is reused.
This RideTech StrongArm lower control arm doesn’t have a provision for a standard coil spring because it’s set up for a coil-over shock or ShockWave airbag/spring. These arms are extremely beefy and come with the ball joints and bushings pressed in. The tab on the left is for the sway bar end-link mounting.
RideTech has air systems that provide exceptional handling comparable to the best conventional systems available from the aftermarket, and the ShockWave is a big part of that. The high-quality adjustable shock within an air spring also solves a lot of suspension and body panel fitment issues, making air suspension suitable for G-Body and many other applications.
The LevelPRO system allows easy monitoring and pressure changes right from a dash- or console-mounted touchscreen.
RideTech’s RidePRO system features this compact air compressor, tank, and valving assembly. The unit easily fits under the package tray
Sway Bars
Selecting the correct sway bars (technically, anti-sway or anti-roll bars) reduce unwanted body roll and suspension action to yield major improvements in handling. Essentially, the sway bar acts similar to a torsion bar, connecting the frame to the suspension on each side of the car. Therefore, the sway bar needs to be properly matched to the spring rate of the car and its application. If the sway bar has a larger diameter, less spring rate is needed; if the sway bar has a smaller diameter, more spring rate is needed.
Often, sway bar selection is critical and somewhat similar to camshaft selection, so do some research and choose wisely. Bigger is not necessarily better.
This Tech Tip is From the Full Book, GM G-BODY PERFORMANCE UPGRADES 1978-1987. For a comprehensive guide on this entire subject you can visit this link:
LEARN MORE ABOUT THIS BOOK HERE
SHARE THIS ARTICLE: Please feel free to share this post In Facebook Groups or any automotive Forums or blogs you read. You can use the social sharing buttons to the left, or copy and paste the website link:
https://www.chevydiy.com/gm-g-body-suspension-performance-options
Stock Bars
Similar to the front bar on many other GM vehicles, the G-Body’s front sway bar is mounted to the frame rails with rubber-insulated brackets and rubber-bushed end links. The end links are basically long bolts with a steel spacer plus two steel washers, two rubber bushings, and a nut. In the rear, the sway bar bolts directly to the inner portion of the lower control arm and not directly to the frame. This design limits the effectiveness of the bar because it has less leverage than a sway bar that attaches directly to the rear end housing. Rear sway bars on the third- and fourthgeneration F-Body cars link from the rear axle to the frame, and this provides more effective suspension control and reduced body roll. This design is a carryover from the A-Body.
Fortunately, General Motors offers many sway bar sizes for the G-Body and the front bar of third-generation F-Bodies. You may have to try several types and diameters to find the correct size. This enables you to purchase different sizes for very little money from salvage yards, and experiment to see what works best with your particular combination. If you have friends who drag race their G-Bodies, you may even be able to get the sway bars for free because they remove them and store them for later use.
Aftermarket Sway Bars
Most aftermarket sway bars are similar in design to the stock pieces, but often in larger diameters. Oddly enough, most manufacturers only sell one bar for a given chassis. If your car is equipped with manufacturer springs, the bar is matched to the spring rate of those springs. Otherwise, it may not give the desired results.
This 1971 Cutlass S carries a front suspension that’s nearly identical to the one going into the GNXcess. Upper and lower RideTech SrongArms and coil-over shocks have been installed. The stout Musclebar front sway bar system has been bolted in and features late-model Corvette-style end links.
The Musclebar installs in the stock location, but the larger bar size combined with larger tubing requires some re-drilling and tapping of the frame for mounting. You use the bushing brackets as a template to perform this quick and easy procedure.
Larger, polyurethane bushings and matching frame brackets, as well as higher quality end links typically come with aftermarket front bars. In the case of some rear bars, the end link can be installed in several different locations, so you can tune the bar to your particular suspension setup and application. Most suspension tuners recommend starting with this type of bar in its softest setting, then adjusting to a stiffer setting.
To get the best performance ensure that the front sway bar ends are as close to parallel to the ground as possible. If the car is lowered, the end link is often too long, causing bind. In some cases, an end link can be cut down, but a better solution is to buy a replacement end link in the appropriate length. Energy Suspension is a good source for these.
For many years, circle track racers and serious road racers commonly used a fabricated straight/splined bar with correspondingly splined ends. These bars are typically mounted to the frame with a bushing and strap similar to other sway bars. In addition, these are often larger and stronger than stock and attached to the control arm with a heim joint end link. As with any bar, the rate of the bar must be properly matched to the springs, but these are adjustable while the conventional ones are not, so you can change the position of the end link to stiffen or soften the bar. For many years, this style of bar also appeared on high-end, pro-touring cars, yet most are one-offs, rather than a production design.
RideTech offers what appears, at first, to be a splined sway bar for the G-Body called the Musclebar. It is designed to be used on lowered vehicles, and to maximize tire clearance. Unlike the NASCAR-style bars, RideTech uses an unsplined bar with bolt-on ends that are machined to fit the specific application. Instead of a heim joint end link, RideTech uses Posi-Link end links, which are similar to those found on newer vehicles such as the C5 and C6 Corvette. These give the advantage of immediate reaction, rather than the less immediate reaction of a typical bushing-style end link.
Installation of the front and rear RideTech Musclebars is very straightforward. Here are the general steps:
1. Remove the stock sway bar, sway bar end links, and sway bar mounts and bushings. None of this will be reused, so these can be discarded.
2. Push the sway bar bushings and brackets onto the new bar, and install the supplied hardware. Because of the new sway bar’s much larger size, the OEM sway bar mounting holes in the frame are not far enough apart. This is no problem because you can easily drill and tap the two needed holes.
3. Once the holes are finished, bolt the bushing brackets to the frame, and bolt the machined ends onto the bar. Use thread-locking compound on all of these bolts.
4. Bolt the Posi-Links to the machined portion of the sway bar and then to the lower control arm. You may need to put a jack under the lower control arm and raise it to get the link in the proper position.
Sway Bar Removal
Since many G-Body owners are more interested in going fast in a straight line, the number-one front sway bar modification for straightline or drag cars is sway bar removal. Front sway bar removal reduces weight and allows the front end travel to increase on launch, which transfers weight to the rear tires and increases traction in most cases. The extra weight transfer may or may not be desirable, but obviously if you’re trying to increase traction the extra weight transfer is desirable. Weight transfer is determined by spring rates shocks, car weight, power output, chassis stiffness, and several other factors.
As with any type of tuning, lots of experimentation is required. A bar smaller than stock may work best on one car, while no bar may be fine on another. For a dual-purpose car, disconnecting the end links from the bar gives much of the same result, and the bar is easily reconnected for the drive home.
Shocks
Shocks are one of the most important components of any suspension, but many people do not take the time to select the proper shocks for the car and application. Shocks have a greater effect on ride and performance than most of the more glamorous suspension parts. A full discussion of shock theory and application is outside the scope of this book, so to simplify things the following are a few specific recommendations.
If you’re doing a true restoration, choose stock AC Delco shocks, which can be repainted to look stock. Most people just buy whatever shocks the local parts store has on the shelf, and the average driver never knows the difference. Those types of shocks meet most people’s number-one requirement, which is low cost. But by choosing them, owners are leaving a lot of performance on the table.
Budgetary compromises do have to be made, but shocks are one area where I refuse to compromise. There are plenty of high-quality examples. For the average street application (and track applications in some cases), I recommend Bilstein B6 HD shocks (PN 24-009492). This is a heavy-duty, monotube, gas-charged shock.
That is not to say that Koni, QA1, Penske, VariShock, and others don’t make a fine product, because they do. But, keeping budget in mind, Bilstein is typically the least-expensive, high-quality shock on the market. If additional features, such as adjustability, custom valving, billet aluminum shock tubes are desired, then the others I mentioned may be a better choice.
Coil-Overs
Coil-over shocks have become an easy bolt-on conversion for G-Bodies. The main advantage of this type of setup is that it allows a far larger choice of spring rates than is typically available, and this lends itself to near infi nite tuneability. Does the average enthusiast need this? Doubtful. However, if you plan to autocross or road race, coil-overs are a virtual necessity. Although many companies offer coil-over shocks, RideTech shocks are engineered for the proper mounting brackets to make them a bolt-on installation in any G-Body. RideTech coil-overs are available in single-adjustable, double-adjustable, or non-adjustable versions, and come with Hyperco coil springs. A variety of spring rates are available, and RideTech’s technical support department can help you decide which is best, based on your application. This is a true bolt-on system, and it comes with everything needed for the conversion.
Detroit Speed & Engineering offers a full line of G-Body suspension and chassis products. The DSE suspension system comes with either conventional springs and shocks or coilovers. The coil-spring version is installed on the GNXray T-Type and provides exceptional performance.
Springs
G-Bodies use coil springs front and rear, and in most cases, you still find the original springs. Spring rates were typically very soft, at least by modern standards. Most of these cars were not built for performance, and even with performance models, the suspension was still very lacking. This is due mostly to the lack of rigidity, and very compliant bushings and shocks.
The chassis in G-Bodies is very weak and only slightly better than that in the A-Bodies that preceded it, so a higher spring rate (or stiffer spring) is wasted on that particular chassis. This is still true and is something to keep in mind when modifying your G-Body’s suspension. An expensive aftermarket suspension doesn’t make much sense if the chassis isn’t going to be adequately stiffened, so box the frame and add frame bracing before you make any major suspension upgrades.
That said, most G-Bodies have the original springs, and they need replacement. In most cases, they have sagged. Many were improperly lowered through heating the coils or excessive cutting. Or, even worse, G-Bodies were raised to fit a ridiculously large set of wheels. In any case, replacement is simple, and replacing them while rebuilding the front suspension saves time and money.
For a stock application, you can buy springs from any local auto parts store, or an online vendor, such as Rock Auto. Keep in mind, though, that you have little or no choice of spring rate. These are mostly generic springs designed to fit any application. While they do fit, the rate, ride height, and other aspects typically are not ideal, due to production compromises (soft ride) and the wide range of factory equipment. If they work well for you, consider yourself lucky.
A better choice is to order springs from the company that likely made your originals, Eaton Detroit Spring. You can provide the exact specifications of your vehicle (engine size, transmission type, options, etc.), and they can build a new set of springs using the factory blueprints. They cost a little more, but if you want a stock look this is the way to go.
Lowering the G-Body
Most enthusiasts, regardless of how they use the car, prefer a lower stance, especially if the car is equipped with larger aftermarket wheels and tires. Nothing ruins the look of an otherwise nice car more than a horrible stance. Reducing the gap between the wheel opening and the tire does wonders to improve appearance, but this is by no means the sole reason to consider lowering it. A lower center of gravity improves handling, and the right combination of springs and sway bars can drastically reduce body roll while still providing a good ride.
Lowering Springs
Installing a set of lowering springs at the correct spring rate for the vehicle is the easiest way to lower a car. Most aftermarket suspension companies, including Hotchkis, Eibach, ChassisWorks, and Global West, offer these springs. Most suspension companies list the amount of drop that can be expected, but this figure is rarely accurate for a particular vehicle because of the aforementioned variables. You may not see any change at all.
For instance, if the stock springs have sagged signifi – cantly, or the new engine is significantly lighter than the original (say an LS3 in place of an all-iron 305), it may retain the stock ride height. Or, the opposite may occur, and the front end is now higher. If this happens, verify that the springs are properly seated in the frame as well as on the lower control arm.
This spindle is sold under the Summit Racing brand, but is likely made by Belltech.
If the springs are improperly seated on one or both sides, they are significantly higher than they should be. If the springs are properly seated and the car is still too high, drive the car for a couple of days before doing anything more. The springs “set in” and that reduces the ride height by a small amount, which may be enough.
If the ride height is still too high, you can cut the springs, but there are a few things to remember when doing this. For one, only cut a spring with a tool that doesn’t generate much heat. Use a 41⁄2-inch cutting disc on an angle grinder because it won’t affect the temper as does a torch or plasma cutter. Also, cut the spring in no more than 1/2-coil increments.
You may have to remove and reinstall the spring several times before getting the height where you want it, but this is preferable to cutting too much and having to replace the springs. Also, do not ever remove more than a full coil because the spring can be severely weakened and even fail in extreme cases.
Dropped Spindles
If the car is still higher than desired after cutting 1/2 coil from the spring, consider installing a dropped spindle. The typical dropped spindle has a 2-inch drop. The actual spindle portion is raised, which effectively lowers the ride height of the car.
Dropped spindles are readily available for G-Body cars. If using stock spindles, you can select early S10 spindles (Belltech PN 2100) to achieve a 2-inch drop, and these spindles may be advertised as or share the same part number as S10 spindles. If using a 1998–2004 S10 Blazer 2WD spindle, Belltech makes a dropped spindle version for the G-Body (PN 2102).
So, how do you determine the best spring for your particular application? Unfortunately, there are so many variables (even factory cars came with hundreds of spring options), and everything that affects the weight of the car ultimately affects which spring you need.
To get in the ball park for a typical street or pro-touring application, start with Hotchkis springs (PN 1902). If using a lighter engine (such as an allaluminum LS3), you probably need to cut them to get the ride height correct. This requires trial and error. Before cutting anything, though, drive the car and give the springs a chance to settle. It’s easy to pull the springs and cut them, but you can’t put it back, so be sure of what you are doing. I don’t recommend cutting more than half the coil from these springs.
New OEM-type spindles are available from Speedway Motors and Summit Racing (shown). They are a good option if new or reconditioned ones are not available. These are also an excellent option if your stock spindles are in poor shape and you don’t want a drop or plan to do a brake conversion.
Competition Springs
Special application springs or custom lowering springs with a specific rate are available. If your G-Body is used for autocrossing, road racing, even circle track racing, you may have a specific spring rate target for the particular application. All of these applications have different requirements than the typical, off-the-shelf “lowering” spring for high-performance street use.
The stock tierod sleeves are very weak, and are hard to adjust quickly; these units from Hotchkis solve both problems.
Since this car is street-driven and does autocrosses, the Hotchkis tie-rod sleeves make things a little easier when changing alignment settings. (Photo Courtesy Doug Lutes)
This front sway bar uses Energy Suspension bushings. They are available in a variety of sizes and colors.
The easiest and least expensive way to go is with a race-oriented spring company, such as Afco Racing. While Afco is primarily known as a circle track supplier, the company offers springs in nearly unlimited rates. Selecting the appropriate spring rate is beyond the scope of this book, but your spring manufacturer can often lead you in the right direction. Mark Savitske’s How to Make Your Muscle Car Handle provides extensive instruction for selecting spring rates for particular applications.
Drag racing applications have their own spring requirements, but many successful racers use lighter springs found in V-6 applications. In many cases, these may be the springs their car originally came with because many G-Bodies were V-6 equipped and later swapped to V-8s. Some manufacturers, such as Moroso, offer a “trick” front spring, designed for increased weight transfer. This type of spring isn’t recommended for a vehicle that sees street use, however, due to the rapid weight transfer (in either direction, accelerating as well as braking).
Written by Colin Kleer and republished with permission of CarTech Inc
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